Open-air Hygge & Frozen Canals
Discovering Copenhagen’s Winter Secrets
Copenhagen is an expensive place to travel to. When we saw tickets for half of the price for a December trip, we did extensive research to see if traveling there during the winter holidays would be worth it. We tested it, and it was an incredible trip. As Americans, we find the holidays in the US to be exhausting. There is an aggressive focus on consumerism and materialism that just feels so disingenuous.
Copenhagen was a refreshing take on the holidays. The decorations were modest, minimalist, and many looked hand-made by the community, whereas US decorations are mass-produced with shiny, cheap materials that are designed for one-time use. Things in Copenhagen just seemed bespoke, timeless, and quaint. Even watching Danish ads on TV was a nice experience when we got sick at the end of our trip and had to stay in our hotel room. The intention seemed to focus more on the celebration of winter and togetherness versus a demand to buy things.
Copenhagen’s winter culture includes ice skating, having hot mulled wine or currywurst, walking along frozen canals lit up by string lights, and strolling through Christmas markets with handmade items (or a literal blacksmith onsite). Many people can be seen sitting outside at restaurants under heat lamps, and on faux fur seating spaces. The culture also includes cozying up with boardgames, beer/coffee, and hot foods at small cafes with groups of friends.
Below are some of our favorite places in Copenhagen. Make sure to try Smorrebrod, skyr, and Danish pastries. Be sure to visit the Torvehallerne food hall and the Rosenborg castle grounds.
Food & Drink
Buka: has an incredible pistachio croissant
Bastard Cafe: adorable and lively hangout with a large board game collection and huge hygge culture
Lille Petra: has an incredible skyr breakfast that I think about often
Dandelion Burger: has a seriously delicious burger that rivals the best burgers I’ve had
Killer Kebab: amazing food with a lot of spice that I still crave
Suphan Thai Takeaway: tiny place with a small amount of staff that makes incredible Thai food that I wish I had back home
Studio x Kitchen: I went here twice (which is rare), the menu is adventurous and the food is stellar - get folded eggs
Mum’s Deli: has incredible and unique stew (we had the orange chicken stew)
Kaf Bar: adorable little breakfast spot in what seems to be a cafe loft - you may get to meet Dug the dog
Aamanns 1921: expensive but incredible fine dining spot that serves new Nordic food - they serve traditional Nordic Christmas dinner in December
Rørt: located in the Torvehallerne market and serves Smørrebrød, an open faced sandwich on rye bread that must be tried while in Copenhagen
Landbageriet: cute little bakery shop to pick up baked goods - got and loved the focaccia
Torvehallerne: fresh food market that is absolutely worth visiting
Sights
Nyhavn Harbor: nautical vibe, iconic and colorful shore-side houses - very picturesque and seen in most photos of Copenhagen online
Nyboder Houses: orange former naval barracks, definitely worth checking out
Tivoli Gardens: huge amusement park dating from 1843, fun to walk around even if rides are not your thing as there are lots of retail and food stalls - we got to get amazing raclette mac and cheese that I crave often
Christianborg Palace: very interesting castle with 800+ years of history and currently the home to the Parliament, the Prime Minister's Office, and the Supreme Court
Rosenborg Castle: hands down my favorite castle, absolutely picturesque with an ancient playground, huge surrounding property, picturesque maze and moat usually populated with pretty ducks - the renaissance castle was originally built as a country summerhouse in 1606
Freetown Christiana: an intentional community and commune in the Christianshavn neighborhood - do your research before heading there
Canal: I loved walking around the canal and exploring Copenhagen but my experience was particularly interesting because we went in December and would start exploring around 5 am - we got to see the canal frozen over at this time with a bunch of the city lights reflecting off and it was just beautiful